California.  The mere mention of the word evoked different reactions in the early traveler.  For the Okie who had lost everything, it represented one last chance for redemption.  For the post WW2 traveler, it represented an ideal; a way of life.  California has always seemed to be the embodiment of a dream, so downward they came-drifting in from the eastern states, letting gravity and their dreams pull them inexorably across the map, and the country.

    But California wasn't all orange groves and idyllic beaches.  Far from it.  To the early motorist, it must have seemed as if nature was playing a most gruesome joke upon them.  Beginning in western Arizona and culminating with the Mojave, the environment just kept getting worse and worse-the heat hotter, the mountains more barren.  Harder on the cars, harder on the people.  With the advent of the interstate, it is difficult for us today to understand how dangerous the Mojave really was.  With a trip through the Mojave often being done at night, the importance of those remote 66 towns cannot be over-estimated.   Sometimes, they could quite literally be the difference between life and death.  

    So let's start with those once lonely desert outposts and work our way west towards the coast and the concrete quagmire.  Check back often!  I will try to rotate my stock of shots as often as is feasible.  California has such a wide range of experiences in wait for you, it's hard to pick where to begin...I'll start with 1st real services the early traveler would encounter: Needles.

     Initially a railroad town, the city of Needles and a local paper, 'The Needles Eye', teamed with other fledgling southern California road associations to lobby the government to get the National Old trails Road to pass through their town.   It's hard now to imagine the route going anywhere else in this barren desert, and even though the coming of the interstate has hit the downtown area hard, there still remain some tantalizing Route 66 tidbits to greet the watchful eye.  For example, as you bypass the usual suspects near the interstate and head towards downtown Needles, be sure to check out the cute little Palm Motel at the junction of 'A' street (newer 66) and Front Street (original 66).  These units look to be well cared for (see pic), though I did not get the impression that the motel was open for business.  BTW, did the Palms used to be to be the Old Trails Inn?  I noted remnants of this signage on the eastern side of the main building even though Rittenhouse mentions The Palms in his 1946 book.  

     Just down the street, you can't help but notice the great sign for the 66 Motel.  Apparently now an apartment complex, the 66 sign remains and continues to beckon.  On the west end of town past the fantastic El Garces depot (thankfully undergoing an extensive renovation) and past the overpass, another wonderful 60's era sign awaits: the Sage.  Though looking abandoned, once again, the signage remains to remind us of better days.

     If you're passing through this area in the summer, the oppressive heat of the Mojave seems to wrap around you like a heavy down comforter-dulling the senses and slowing time.  The miles seem to last a looonnngg time and you find yourself continually glancing at your gas and temperature gages.  Just imagine how important those little towns along the route must have been to those earlier motorist whose vehicles were not nearly as reliable (or air conditioned) as our modern ones.  Mountain Springs (now gone), Essex, Danby; Summit, Chambless, Amboy ; Ludlow and Newberry not only were towns, but goals to be met.  A destination you had to make, or there could be dire trouble.  Often, these 'towns' were just a gas station, perhaps a cafe and maybe a couple of tourist cabins out back.  Chambless was typical of these small 'towns'.  Rittenhouse describes it as having "a wide-porched gas station, with a cafe and several tourist cabins".  Are these remaining cabins in my pic the ones that Rittenhouse described?  I'm not sure, but out here, it's very possible.  Also, be sure to check out the plaque on the north side of the road.

     Just west of Chambless, be on the watch out for..., well you really don't have to watch out.  How can you miss the giant sign looming on the horizon for the Roadrunner's Retreat?   I'm not sure of when this establishment came into being or when it finally closed, but thankfully, the owners have left the fantastic sign for us to admire and photograph.  What a classic!  Taking a look at the detail in this sign up close just makes me appreciate it more.  I hope you feel the same way.

     Barstow.  Long a crossroads for desert travelers, it was also a Santa Fe division point and as such, was worthy of another in the fine tradition of grand tourist accommodations: a Harvey House.  Since 1911, the Casa del Desierto (House of the Desert) has catered to the discriminating traveler, and thankfully, was restored back in 1996.  A 'must see' when in the area.

     Being such an important stop, is it any wonder that with the advent of the auto and highway system that Barstow should not continue to grow and thrive?  In the heyday of 66, Barstow became a full blown tourist and Greyhound Bus stop, but today has that certain gritty, kind of rough frontier feel to it (in my humble opinion).  This is too bad, because there are several old motor courts and cafes worth exploring.  One of these, of course, is the El Rancho.  How could anyone miss it?  Its looming sign could be seen for miles though I don't know if it's still functional or not.  Built with the materials at hand (in this case railroad ties!) the El Rancho units convey a great sense of time and history as they certainly don't construct units like these anymore!  Down the street, the curved adobe facade of the Topper Motel is another example of great vintage roadside architecture.

     Since the earliest of times, Cajon Pass has been used to traverse the mountains and travel between the arid desert lands to the east with the more fertile, temperate coastal areas.  1st used by the indigenous tribes, the Spanish then used the pass as part of their Spanish Trail trading route.  Becoming a brutally rough toll road in the mid-late 1800's, Cajon Pass finally became a public thoroughfare in 1882 when leases for the toll road expired.  Eventually, the National Old Trails Road and the fledgling U.S. highway bearing the number 66 would also push through the area.  Therefore, is it any wonder that there still exist many interesting sites to stop and explore through here?  Hobo camps, early rest stops; early 4-lane incarnations (see pic) and a great spot for train watching all beckon in the area, but not until after a stop at the Summit Inn (see pic) for a refueling and a shake!  Providing friendly service and a great burger since 1951, I tried one of the 'famous' date shakes  but found it a little rich for my taste.  Regardless, be sure to stop at the Inn to relax and recharge before heading on down into the hustle and bustle of modern day L.A..

   For those of you in the Midwest not accustomed to city driving,  I heartily recommend timing your trip so you arrive in the L.A. basin on a weekend.  Even then, the interstates and miles of concrete can be intimidating and overwhelming.   The size of the metro area can also be deceiving.  I believe any roadie that really wants to explore what evidence of 66 remains in the area should really plan on at least two full days to gradually make your way into the city proper along Foothills Blvd working down to Santa Monica.  There are still many jewels in the rough to be spotted, but with the incredible price of real estate, many old icons are disappearing fast.  Wigwam Village #7 in San Bernardino is a prime example of threatened vintage real estate.  In poor condition and a not very good part of town, they may not last much longer.  BTW, many folks say these are in Rialto, but there is a San Bernardino City Limits marker about two blocks west of the Wigwams on Foothills Blvd.  Also from just down the street in Rialto on the NE corner of Sycamore and Foothills, Ned's Oil & Stuff looks like they've been servicing vehicles for some time.

     Continuing through town to the Route's unofficial ending point at the Santa Monica Pier, I hope your virtual journey has been a pleasant one.  I hope that you enjoy my other roadie pages as well.  Furthermore, I'd like to ask each of you to please do all that you can to support those remaining roadside establishments that have helped to make our roadside culture so wonderfully unique, and remember those people and establishments that have passed into the world of our collective memories and collectible memorabilia.  Keep exploring your world and the past with the intent of preserving it for the future, but most of all and as always, stay as curious as a child.  

Choose your favorite 66 state to jump to!