In the Evergreen State,
the Olympic Highway was the chosen route in 1926 to carry the new U.S. Highway
101 shield. Beginning in Olympia at the historic juncture with the Pacific
Highway (U.S. 99), 101 behaved rather erratically by first heading north,
then west before dropping south on its journey to the mouth of the mighty
Columbia River.
Following Puget Sound to the
Straight of Juan De Fuca out of Olympia, 101 skirts the edges of the Olympic
Mountains. Indeed, near the town of Sequim (pronounced 'sqwim'), one can
go from snow & ice at Hurricane Ridge Park in the Olympics to Dungeness Spit
out into the straight in 45 minutes! Port Angeles might be a good stopping
point near here. Plenty to see and do here, with some of the frontage road
offshoots being short sections of bypassed 101. Port Angeles also has a
good number of surviving vintage motels, a couple of good diners, and many
antiques. Support the local folks if you can.
Heading west, 101 passes by
the edge of beautiful Crescent Lake. The lake's crystal clear, emerald
green waters are best enjoyed on the rare sunny day, but the drive along it's
edge is still a beautiful drive reminiscent of days gone by. However, once
past the lake, evidence of one of the states prime industries becomes all too
evident: logging. Now I'm not going to be a tree hugger and say logging
has got to stop...let's be serious. But...does everything have to
be stripped bare?? Many portions of 101 along the NW edge of the Washington
peninsula look as the highway is going through a war zone. Naked
hillsides, muddy creeks, and ripped stumps are all that is left of vast swaths
of the surrounding countryside. I realize we will always need to use trees, but
can't the logging be accomplished in a more non-destructive manner?
Finally, the run down the west
side! Ol' 101 skirts the Quinalt and Hoh Indian reservations, and passes
through Olympic National Forest and National Parks. Be sure to check out
the rocky Washington coast near La Push and a photo of Destruction Island should
not be missed! I love the chattering rocks as the pounding surf recedes
before the oncoming onslaught of the next wave. Be sure you have your
umbrellas! You are in America's only Northern Temperate Rainforest. Precipitation
here averages over 200 inches a year as evidenced by the soft green mossy
coverings on anything stationary!
Finally, the industrial port
towns of Hoquiam and Aberdeen approach. Old logging towns, these cities
are somewhat depressed now due to the exhaustion of the local product.
Regardless, they are interesting in their own right as there are a few remaining
establishments, and the junction of 101 and U.S. 12 in Aberdeen represented the
extreme western terminus of this transcontinental highway.
From here, you can almost here
the clash of the fresh water of the Columbia colliding with the ocean's
relentless surf. The mouth of the Columbia was, and remains an extremely
dangerous navigational hazard to shipping. Over 100 ships lie scattered on
the sandy bottoms of the rivers mouth, the remains of which still occasionally
wash ashore after strong storms. Lucky for us, a ferry crossing is no
longer required as it was when 101 first was established. The 4.1 mile
long Megler-Astoria bridge will carry us speedily along as we say goodbye to the Firs,
Cedars and Spruces of the Evergreen state.
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I took a little holiday road
trip Thanksgiving weekend the Fall of 2001.
As is typical of the Northwest at this time of year, it was drizzly the whole
time. But we have to work with what's available, and I've learned to take
a picture even if I know it may not turn out. I may never have the
opportunity to cross that particular path again. With this in mind, I
present to you some photos from a little 101 excursion in Washington, dated
November, 2001:
Highway 101 begins in Olympia,
Washington's capitol. As mentioned in Dale Sanderson's Ends
of U.S. Highways web page, it's numbering scheme is fraught with
inconsistencies. For example, as you leave Olympia on 'south' 101,
you actually head north and west across the Olympic peninsula before you head
south towards Oregon! Here is a shot of the historic beginning of 101 at
it's juncture with the Pacific Highway (Highway 99) in Olympia (post 1949
earthquake...note the one-way on State St.)
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On the west side of the peninsula, 101 for a
short time wanders through
Olympic National Park. This area is home to America's great Northwestern temperate
rainforest. Don't
believe me? Check out this 1931 bridge over the Hoh river. That's
not green
paint, it's moss! Here's also an example of the road itself through this area.
This portion of Washington State near the Hoh rainforest averages over 200 inches of rain a year. So, as you can imagine, these are very typical
views of how 101 may look in this area.
Further south near the
industrial/logging areas of Hoquiam and Aberdeen, the constant dampness sure
doesn't allow
an old roadside attraction to last long after its abandonment/demise. And
unfortunately, the somewhat economically depressed nature of this area has
caused quite a number of businesses to call it quits over the years.
Although perhaps not as plentiful as they used to be, there are, however, a
couple of 'hanger-on-ers'. For example, check out the 'Y' motel north of
Aberdeen. That old motel moniker on the pole harkens back to a time of
chrome bumpers and AM radios, doesn't it?!
Highway 101 then heads south
along Willapa Bay. The oyster industry is big around here as
evidenced by the piles of shells scattered all along this stretch, and the
quaint town of South Bend sits right in the middle of it. South Bend
still has that cozy, laid-back feel to it. Some good antique shops here,
and a couple of restaurants serving up---you guessed it---great oyster
stew! Take a look at this pic of highway 101 here in South Bend.
It's still the main drag, and you're glad it is. I don't recall the date
of this Lumber Exchange building, but I believe it was 1902. Someone
correct me if I'm wrong.
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Before we leave the state of Washington on the old Olympic Highway, you pass a
couple of reminders of a time when this was still the frontier. When
threats to the west coast were a real possibility.
Forts Canby and Columbia (see picture) still stand guard. Their guns long
gone or immobilized, the massive revetments serve as a reminder that the price
of freedom is eternal vigilance. Lewis and Clark may have explored the
area, but it was these forts that helped secure the Northwest for a growing
United States.
Just past the Lewis &
Clark monument pictured above, cross the the 4.1 mile long Megler-Astoria bridge
and follow Highway 101 into Oregon!
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