Oregon, synonymous with mountains, beaches
and wineries, continues to captivate today. One of the original US
highways so designated in 1926,
Highway
101 has helped bring together and bond the many small communities of coastal
Oregon for over 75 years now. Providing the infrastructure so desperately
needed in this rugged part of the country, 101 has helped Oregon to establish
its Pacific beaches as a world-class destination. Indeed, a drive along
Oregon Highway 101 has become a vacation in and of itself. The
state of Oregon and even the U.S. government agree: Oregon's Highway 101
has been designated as both a state and national scenic byway. Don't you
dare miss it!
So with this in mind, let's begin our trip
into northern Oregon as we enter the state crossing the mighty Columbia...

Tame now as compared to when Lewis and
Clark first rode upon it, the Columbia still presents a formidable challenge to
even modern Engineering
methods and materials. Do you realize that it wasn't until 1966 that the
huge, 4.2 mile long Megler-Astoria river bridge was built? You can get an
idea of the size/height of this bridge...check out the top of the semi-truck on
the bridge in my photo. Until this bridge was
built, the would-be traveler was more likely an unwilling sit-n-waiter...waiting
for this little ferry pictured at the right to shuttle your vehicle on a choppy,
20-minute adventure across the river. This excerpt is from a 50's
era Oregon 101 travel brochure I've managed to come across. Note the
comments about Victoria, B.C. being noted as the northern terminus for
U.S.101. It makes me believe that perhaps the strip of highway between
Olympia and Port Angeles should have been designated as '101E' or something else
altogether.
South of Astoria, be on the lookout
for the bustling little town of Cannon Beach. Named for the cannon of a
sunken ship that washed ashore near here,
Cannon
Beach today is a thriving artist colony and tourist destination. If you've
seen any Highway 101 postcards at all, I'm sure you're familiar with the images
of Haystack Rock and Hug Point. In fact, I've got two or three great 'now
& then' comparisons I'd like to share
with
you. For example, please compare this old postcard of Hug Point with my
current (06/02) photo of the same area. This spot is now in Hug Point
state park (north of the parking area) which is just a few miles south of Cannon
Beach. Upon closer examination, the old concrete from the original road is
still quite evident on this well-worn outcropping. I can't imagine what
the original road builders had in mind...trying to build a road so close to the
sea.
Authors addendum-04/05: From an e-mail, reader Paul Meienberg who lived in
the area relates these interesting tidbits:
"Having spent summers from the 1940s through the 1970s at our home
at Arch Cape fronting the beach about 1/4 mile south of Hug Point, I can clear
up your questioning why a rough road was constructed around the point. For years
this was the only access to Arch Cape. Cannot say exactly when the road
came through from Cannon Beach, but in 1947 it was still unpaved. Also the
tunnel south of Arch Cape was only constructed about 1940, allegedly the last
link of Highway 101. The old "stagecoach" house from the early
1900s still stands in a developed area at the north end of Arch Cape. It
was truly an isolated town. When I was young we played dangerous games with the
incoming tide running around Hug Point but learned to carefully navigate it with
the Jeep." Thanks for sharing Paul!
Somewhat further south just past the small
town of Arch Cape, be sure to stop at the coast overlook at Oswald West state
park near MM (mile marker)
41. This photo can only begin to convey the beauty of this place. A
favorite spot for whale watching and just plain soaking up nature, take the time
to examine not only nature's handiwork, but the work of those early road
engineers that helped make this incredible road possible. That's the 101
retaining wall on the left. I've seen old
photos of this spot. You're enjoying the view just as your great
grandparents did!

Central Oregon along 101 is a study in
constant fascination...fascination with the myriad ocean beaches, and
fascination with the Engineering accomplishments
of the many incredible bridges along this stretch. These bridges are not
only incredible feats of technical prowess, but most were
designed with a concept that unfortunately
seems alien in today's functionally-oriented
world: aesthetic
beauty. Also prevalent in this area, are a myriad of short, cut-off
segments of old and sometimes pre-101 roadways to be explored. One such lovely
segment is the Otter Crest Loop just south of Depot Bay. Closed to through
traffic due to a recent landslide (see pic), Otter Crest Loop road is an exquisite example
of the changes in highway evolution. The Loop is a twisty, narrow
road that skirts the cliffs of the Pacific, seemingly originally designed for pleasure. Today's Highway 101 roughly parallels
this older byway, but tends to plow its way through higher on the
hillside...less scenic, but more functional (see pic-that's new 101 above the
washout). Unfortunately, most people
today seem to prefer it that way.
The following pics are also from Otter Crest Loop Road.
By the way, the night before we stayed in Depot Bay at the
Troller's Inn (circa 1937!). Newly renovated and under new management,
it's a great, cute place to relax...especially unit #5 in the back! Back
to the road...Pic #1 is of the 1927 Rocky Creek (Ben Jones
Bridge)...recently refurbished. Great job ODOT! Just
a little bit further south, you have to stop due
to a concrete barrier, and then walk a couple hundred of yards into the woods on
the old road. Don't be shy, it's a great study in history. Pic #2 is
of my extremely patient, better half, Leslie
examining some cool ferns while I
ooh & aahh over the old road. The pic above of the washout was taken looking south from the
same point. Addendum 03/08: Thanks
to info from fellow roadie Mark freeman, mark indicates that the Otter crest
Loop south of the Ben Jones bridge has recently been re-paved and is available
for one-way traffic southbound to the Cape Foulweather overlook. Great job
ODOT and thanks Mark, for sharing!
Although 'born' in 1926, 101 didn't
become a 'true' U.S. highway until 1936 when the last of the famous
'McCullough' bridges were built. Finally,
many of the small, coastal villages were connected by a true north-south
highway. Most of these marvelous structures are
thankfully still with us. One such fine example is the graceful structure
spanning Yaquina Bay in Newport. This bridge appears unchanged and is
still as fine as it was 66
years ago. Please take a little time trip as you examine a couple of
postcards of mine...one from the black and white era, another a decade later in
the Linen era
(no PM on either, so I don't know their dates of issue).
The photo is mine, taken in the summer of 2001.
Further down the coast, be sure to
spend some time exploring the awesome Oregon Dunes National Recreation
area.
Miles of dunes to enjoy, and many an outlet where you can rent quads, dirt bikes
etc. What a blast! Anchoring the south end of this area, is the
bustling town of Florence. Plenty of
places
to stay, an old historic shopping area down by the river, and of course, another
trademark McCullough bridge! The Siuslaw river bridge was completed in
1936, and is another awesome combination of engineering and aesthetic
skill. The bridge photo was taken just south of the bridge. Also be
sure to check out the great art-deco detailing of the very southeastern-most
pylon support as shown in my second pic.
And of course, you'll need energy before you begin all this
exploration. Hurry and don't miss the AWESOME
burgers at the In & Out (no connection to the chain) burger joint a couple
of blocks north of the bridge. This establishment has been serving up some
great grub since the 1940's. Unfortunately as is so common these days, the
owner/manager/cook is ready to hang up the apron and slow down a little, so the
place is up for sale. Support them while you can.

Coos Bay is the economic anchor of the
southern Oregon coast. Long a busy port for the export of wood/wood
pulp
and other lumber products, Coos Bay has experienced the same sort of economic
depression as have so many other one commodity towns. The area is still
interesting to the 101 roadie though, as several examples from the hey-days of
roadie architecture live on. Take for example Molly here. I'd wager
a guess that this establishment was not originally the Stockpot...! (Author's
addendum...the following information courtesy Rick Pennington...Thanks
Rick! "Originally this was an A&W Drive In. The next
incarnation came as "The Hop" and that is when this new vintage-style
sign was put up. The Hop closed down and then was re-opened as "The
Stockpot". The local car club still likes to go down there and show
off their cars.")
And of
course, Coos
Bay
is home to yet another of the wonderful McCullough bridges. Truly a work of
art, spend some time to explore the pilings and stairwells on either end of this
bridge. You almost get the sense of being in a cathedral!
Just south of Coos Bay, Highway 101
continues straight south along the coast. It always wasn't so. What
are now known as Oregon Highways 42 and 42S were part of 101 until being
bypassed in the early 60's. This area
consists almost entirely of rural farms and marshy slews, but there were a
couple of old roadside attractions left over from better times. Check out
my pic of the 'House of Confusion'! I wonder how many kids forced their
grumbling fathers to pull over for such whimsy!
As we approach California, we still have to
cross one last, magnificent bridge-the Rogue River bridge at Gold
Beach. Showing definite signs of aging, it was great to see that the ODOT
was working to restore the bridge rather than replacing it. Please check
out this photo from the late spring of '02. Note the cranes and
scaffolding. From here, California is but a short jaunt away!
Back
to Washington -or-
On
to California!
